Peruvian food has been heralded as one of the most important fusion cuisines on Earth. With influences from European, African and Asian immigrants as well as its own indigenous people, there’s never a dull dish in Peruvian cuisine.
Most of us know the tongue-tying supergrain quinoa (pronounced kee-no-wa) but the rest of Peru’s food hasn’t achieved such celebrity status. Luckily London is waking up to this wonderful cuisine and there are plenty of restaurants ready to help you hone a new Peruvian palate.
Ceviche
Ceviche is found all over South America but Peru is its homeland. This simple dish of fish “cooked” in lime or orange juice is arguably Peru’s national dish – there’s even a national ceviche day on June 28.
Despite being called “cooked”, the fish is actually still raw. Like heat, citric acid changes the nature of the protein in flesh: the fish looks cooked, has a springier, lighter texture and is obviously cold. As well as citrus, the chunks of fish – usually sea bass – are marinated in a mix of onions, chilli, salt and pepper that’s known as tiger’s milk, which some of the more daring diners drink. Ceviche is fresh, full of zing and an absolute culinary must.
London has become a ceviche hotspot but it’s hard to beat the two restaurants named after it. Señor Ceviche offers classic and modern takes as well as delicious extras. It takes determination to choose between the El Clasico, the Japanese-inspired Nikkei with tuna, yuzu and ponzu and the fabulous veggie option with Jerusalem artichoke and samphire. If you’re not stuffed enough, we heartily recommend the quinoa croquettas.
Aplty-named Ceviche’s two restaurants are permanently packed with Peru-loving punters. Its ceviche is fantastic for shellfish fans; try the king prawns or decadent Tiradito de Conchas – scallops in roasted amarillo-lemon tiger’s milk with cream, sea fennel and caviar.
Causa
Causa could probably bankrupt the millennial generation. The humble causa combines potatoes – Peru’s most popular ingredient – and the obsession-fuelled avocado.
These two ingredients are traditionally layered in a casserole with optional additions such as tuna, meat or egg in-between. The finished product is a remarkably simple but delicious dish that’ll have you eager to replicate the results in your own kitchen.
As causa contains avocado, the Western world has inevitably taken it over and the perfectly sculpted results aren’t as filling as the potato-laden plates found in Peruvian homes. Our lighter version makes the ideal lunchtime treat so try one of LIMA in Fitzrovia’s three versions; beef tartare, chicken and Andean cereals. Say goodbye to ever affording a mortgage.
Lomo Saltado
Lomo saltado is Peru’s ultimate Asian fusion dish. Chinese immigrants arrived in Peru looking for work and combined two great cuisines in one tasty beef stir fry.
Beef, spices, tomatoes, chilli, peppers and onions are fried up with soy sauce to make a thick, rich gravy. If that doesn’t sound filling enough the stew is usually served on a bed of rice. Still feeling conned out of carbohydrates? Add some chips into the mix too.
Every Peruvian parent, grandmother, friend and postman has their own take on the beloved lomo saltado. If you lack a family recipe then try out Ceviche’s version, where the special saltado sauce sets off the flame-grilled beef to perfection, and Pisqu’s double whammy with rice and chips at Tottenham Court Road.
Anticucho
Sometimes simple is best. Anticuchos are street food kebabs marinaded in spices and vinegar that make the tender, smoky meats sing. They’re perfect for grabbing on the go and make for a wholesome and hearty lunch.
Though London hasn’t quite come round to the idea of grilling guinea pigs or alpacas like the Peruvians do, it does a roaring trade in more familiar meats. Leicester Square Kitchen does some juicy lamb cutlet or beef tenderloin skewers while Mayfair’s Coya serves everything from prawns, mushrooms and chicken to the ultimate Peruvian choice: ox heart.
Aji de gallina
This dish is a departure from the rest: rather than strong spice and tang, aji de gallina is all about cream and cheese. This chicken stew has its roots in the French Revolution. The chefs of executed French nobility sought out work around the world and many found favour in wealthy Peruvian households. The combination of old French recipes and new Peruvian ingredients created popular fusion foods like aji de gallina.
The bright yellow sauce is made from walnuts, mild chillis, milk, breadcrumbs, parmesan and garlic, and is commonly served alongside rice, eggs and olives. Perfect for a cold and rainy day, find this filling feast at Tierra Peru in Essex Road, Islington.
by Jo Davey
The post Peruvian Food: A Tongue-Twisting Treat appeared first on Felix Magazine.
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