I’d never suggest you make Liechtenstein your goal destination. This tiny principality doesn’t have enough square miles to swing a cat, never mind satisfy a week’s curiosity. However, if you find yourself nearby with some time on your hands, this little country offers a bit of class, culture and incredible views.
Where are we?
Liechtenstein (pronunciation here) is hugged between Switzerland and Austria, a little below Germany. The easiest way to reach it from London is by flying to Zurich, or taking a 12-hour train ride. It’s German-speaking, though like Austria it has stamped its own character on the language. The sixth-smallest country in the world, its existence is due to a family having friends in high places.
In a time when several royal families held sway in the area, the wealthy but untitled Liechtensteins sought out political sway. Making pals with the Holy Roman Emperor got them their Prince title but that meant very little without some land to lord over. They bought the tiny areas of Schellenberg and Vaduz, which the Emperor then combined and decreed a principality. So excited were the family about their rise to power, they didn’t actually visit Liechtenstein for almost a century.
Why go?
Given its own royal family couldn’t be bothered to visit, why should you? It’s a good question. Most people arguably come here just to say they’ve done it. I asked at the Vaduz tourist office how many visitors the pint-sized principality gets, and the excessively polite man proudly told me that “many” came from across the world. When asked how many visited twice, he found me less amusing.
I came in from the Austrian side, at Liechtenstein’s northernmost tip. It took mere moments to deem the visit worthwhile as the scenery is to die for. Liechtenstein is mostly mountains and the whole southeast side is pretty much impassable. That means the long road along which its cities sit is low-lying and surrounded by snow-capped peaks. In the bright alpine sun, its quite the 360-degree spectacle.
Vaduz (or Va-dootz)
Liechtenstein’s longest length takes less than half an hour to drive but I spent a day and a night exploring its capital Vaduz and the nearby area.
Vaduz Castle is its biggest (only) attraction. Much like Bucky P, the Royals do live there so you can’t go in. You can however walk from the lower streets up to the castle’s crag, taking in the panorama as you go. It’s a proper old-school castle, evoking images of medieval knights and jousting. On the walk up, check out the strange “golden house”. You can’t miss its golden wind-chime decor. Totally at odds with tradition, it looks like a Grand Designs experiment but there’s not a word of explanation anywhere. Just another oddity from this overlooked sovereign state.
Down in the town you’ll find traditional food that’s worth a taste test. Go straight for the Käsknöpfle, a Liechtensteiner version of macaroni cheese served with crisp onions and, of all things, heaps of apple sauce. You have to try it to believe how good it is. You should also stop in the surprisingly well-stocked Kunstmuseum (Kunst means art in German). They have local art but also a brilliant exhibit of “Kirchner, Léger, Scully & more” until late 2017. Honestly, Liechtenstein has a lot up its little sleeves.
Northern Vaduz (if a city the size of a postage stamp can have a north side) houses the Prince’s wine cellar. Here you can do tastings of Liechtenstein wine, which is actually good despite its lack of exports. You can see the vineyards on the castle walk – one can only assume they have more vineyards hidden elsewhere.
When and Where?
Liechtenstein really is the kind of country where everyone knows everyone. Trying to investigate what the inhabitants actually think of their royal family is rather difficult: everyone genuinely knows them. Every year on August 15 the Prince invites the entire country to his castle for a party. It’s the best idea I’ve heard and I would highly encourage our Queenie to do the same… It’s a festival of food, fireworks and a lot of friends. If you can choose when to visit, that’s the time. Otherwise they also have Christmas markets but unlike in neighbouring countries they are extraordinarily wee and last just one weekend.
If you’re going to stay overnight, it is best to find traditional alpine accommodation just outside the capital in a place like Treisenberg. Liechtenstein uses Swiss Francs and is just as expensive as Switzerland. It’s also a tax haven, so it’s not for the light of purse. You should get some cheaper accommodation if you can drive mountain-ward, with the best views in the country at sunrise.
Liechtenstein Legend
There’s a real charm to Liechtenstein, and a big family atmosphere to soak up. It’s the kind of place best summed up by its neighbouring relations: apparently, Switzerland has a habit of accidentally doing things to Liechtenstein. During a training exercise in 2002, its army got lost and marched into Liechtenstein, performing an accidental invasion. Better yet, in the ’80’s, another Swiss exercise went awry and the army bombed a small patch of Liechtenstein forest. Liechtenstein took all this in fantastic stead – it’s said that the issue was resolved over a case of white wine.
If that sounds like your kind of country, take a tiny detour when you’re next in the alps and tick delightful little Liechtenstein off your travel list.
by Jo Davey
The post Travel: Enjoy A Tiny Trip to Liechtenstein appeared first on Felix Magazine.
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