In Defence of Military Style and How to Wear it

Stand and deliver! Military style has enjoyed a long history of elegance in the peaceful realms of fashion and art. Nevertheless, many are uncomfortable with the military connotations of violence and politics. Meanwhile, others are quite happy to embrace the alter-ego of a fantasy pirate. The V&A’s Revolution exhibition currently display a good starting point in the Beatles’ Sergeant Pepper outfits. What is clear is that military style is not just a London or even a British idea, but a universal phenomenon.

Why do we like it? Uniforms are all about looking good. With close figure-hugging fits, broad shoulders and elaborate decoration, these are the elements that can be worn and enjoyed without fearing a war-trial or looking like you’ve skived off duty.

The Beatles

Visit the V&A’s Revolution exhibition and see two of the original Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band uniforms from 1967, including John Lennon’s now owned by Yoko Ono. These custom-made outfits have the aiguelette cords, braiding and epaulettes of ceremonial outfits. However, they are made in bright, thin material. They also repurposed various genuine medals and badges.

Jimi Hendrix

The legendary guitar god found his iconic original Hussar jacket in Portobello. The vintage shop (before ‘vintage’ was a thing) was called ‘I was Lord Kitchener’s Valet’ and specialised in military uniforms. Many famous rockstars bought items here.

This iconic piece belongs to another era. The 1850s aesthetic was so out of place one hundred years later that it fitted perfectly into the diversity of the sixties. While Hendrix had served as a soldier this was certainly a subversive reclaiming of the uniform for the peace and love that came to define the sixties.

Lemmy Kilmister

Easily one of the more controversial advocates of military style, Lemmy of Hawkwind and Motorhead held a distinct penchant for Nazi memorabilia. While his morals were fiercely libertarian, his collection certainly didn’t equate with his sex, drugs and ‘everything louder than everything else’ rock.

Regularly wearing a peaked cap on stage and an Iron Cross, he claimed he only appreciated the aesthetic of these items. In other words, he thought they looked cool. He claimed if other less evil-associated memorabilia looked as good he would collect them instead. Since, Hugo Boss infamously designed these uniforms their designer qualities are well known, as opposed to the traditional garb on Allied forces.

Nevertheless, most of us who are not world-renowned Heavy Metal icons should really steer clear of such bold statements. Especially since we avoid many elements of Lemmy’s extreme lifestyle! We can admire however, his rather philosophical distinction between aesthetic and meaning. Symbols need only recall painful associations if we let them, since Lemmy’s own preachings were for love and pleasure for all. This would influence the iconography of both Punk and Heavy Metal.

Michael Jackson

The King of Pop was anything but subtle. He had a vast array of military-inspired outfits, mostly in the same ceremonial appearance of braiding and tassels. Clearly only the man himself could pull off these looks, as Lady Gaga was accused of wearing a Nazi uniform to Hillary Clinton’s final presidential rally. The outfit was actually an original belonging to Jackson!

It was part of a full suit in red and black that more resembled Hendrix’s Victorian-era braiding, but out of context and at a glance this was understandably confused.

Adam Ant

Thankfully, London local Adam Ant takes us away from complex questions of bad taste and controversy. His Hussar jacket was first worn by David Hemmings in the 1968 film The Charge of the Light Brigade. This distinctive outfit with leather trousers is now in the collection of the V&A. Also, he made a strong contribution to New Romantic style, having been inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s maritime-inspired collections. He is influential as much for his use of cosmetics as anything else.

This was not about provocative symbols and dark penchants but more of a Regency flamboyance that made the Dandy Highwayman.

Marylin Manson

Marylin Manson controversial? Never! It’s difficult enough to see many of his antics with censored videos but Manson had a rather too edgy appearance in a white uniform and cap. He’s scary and this is part of the act. The rest of us will look rather out of place on the tube.

How to wear Military Style

1- Firstly, if in doubt, buy an outfit from a fashion line rather than actual uniform pieces. Zara is a recent high-street addition to many designers who produce these types of clothing.

2- Maybe avoid black. Definitely avoid white. White was worn by Hitler’s SS and megalomaniac dictators.

3- Braiding is best- it’s more historical costume and less Quentin Tarantino.

4- No badges, medals or ranks. These are symbols. These are both earned and criticised. You want to look great. You don’t want to look like you’ve bought them off eBay to score some free drinks.

5- If you’re going to look different- be different. Look into alternative styles like Goth and Punk to see how these unconventional clothes can look bold and distinguished.

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