Christmas markets are making a slow, snow-trodden trudge into London, with Winter Wonderland and the Tate doing their part to get us festive. But given their longevity across Europe, it’s pretty surprising mulled cider and carols haven’t permeated every corner of the capital for years.
The reason, I suppose, is obvious: it’s just so cheap and easy to get to Germany and see it done right. We have yet to fully embrace the idea, and once you’ve experience the real deal, you can really taste the delicious, cinnamon-sprinkled difference.
Meeting the locals
Having meant to go for years, I finally booked some tickets to Dusseldorf and headed to Essen for the first December weekend. Avoiding the larger markets in the bigger state capitals seemed a wise choice. In the end, Essen proved more than enough – a substantial, snaking line of stalls that took over every street.
While tourists happily latch onto the first vendors of food and glühwein (more on that later) the locals know exactly where they’re heading. They have their time-honoured traditions, with a favourite stall for just about everything. Sausages are to be got from here, never there; the stall with the talking moose head is best for finding tables; this shop does the nicest baubles and down this street is a quiet cafe that lets you use the loo.
If you’re not lucky enough to have a local on hand, it’s incredibly easy to obtain one. A shared table and a simple ‘hallo’ does the trick, and you’ll soon be lead like hungry lemmings to the ‘one and only’ stall for this specialty. It’s perhaps this part that London will take time to master – I met four nationalities in just a few hours, with each chiming in with advice. There’s a real camaraderie between strangers. Whilst I’d like to point the finger at seasonal cheer and goodwill among all, the prime suspect has to be the glühwein.
Making Merry
It’s mulled wine spiked with a spirit of choice and served and steaming hot temperatures. There doesn’t seem to be any form of measure when it comes to the shots, so don’t go too gung-ho. The first mouthful is basically alcohol fumes, but the rest tastes like true Christmas. My favourite addition is amaretto, but rum is a tasty second if you’re not into sweet.
You’ll soon hear people’s boasts of just how many glühweins they managed last year, all of which seem surprisingly low until ten minutes after your first. That’s when you realise it’s not the cold tingling in your limbs anymore. What’s most dizzying is the price. At €4 a mug, it’s a fabulously affordable luxury: just remember to pick up your mug deposit afterwards. With drink prices in London costing an arm, a leg and a black market kidney, we’ll never achieve the level of cheer needed to break down our inhibitions. We need to spike british wines with a cheaper, stronger festive spirit.
If you’re able to walk post-wine, then the markets themselves are a smorgasbord of gifts: food, decorations, clothes, trinkets, homeware. There’s a lot to get lost in and a lot of people to help you. The stage is set under twinkling lights, with wooden chalets, music, laughter, warm woollen layers and more Santa hats than you can shake a stick at. I recommend opting for some group antlers, complete with flashing lights and jingle bells. It makes picking your party out much easier.
All you need is a single evening to soak up the sights and smells, and a morning after to recover. Until London learns the ways of the glühwein, we’ll be popping over to take part in the jolliest of German traditions. After all, Christmas is a time for sharing.
Getting there
Flights from London to Germany go daily. Find the cheapest destination for you and plan from there. Stay outside of towns for truly traditional accommodation to complete your Christmas escape.
The post Feel Festive at Germany’s Christmas Markets appeared first on Felix Magazine.
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