All About Camden

 

The thought of fighting through bustling Camden on a Saturday afternoon can seem a nightmare to many. Plenty denounce the famous town as ‘touristy’, ‘gentrified’ and wholly taken over by souvenir stands. Nevertheless, many young emerging artists continue to fight against the rising costs of living here. Is the romantic bohemian vision still true? While a story of a drifting and evolving community, Camden’s is certainly not one of decline. See for yourself the energy and life that can be found in this bustling microcosm.

Camden has been the centre of alternative culture in London for over half a century. Completely residential since the 1790s, the development of the Grand Union Canal and improvement of the railway system- now serviced by the current stations of Euston, King’s Cross and St Pancras- turned Camden into one of the most vibrant and interesting districts in London. The mix of Georgian terraces and concrete council blocks means a diverse breadth of people has contributed to this culturally rich dynamic for decades.

Today, Camden’s markets are stocked with unique treasures. Its streets are filled with the most diverse array of cuisines and it has an unparalleled live music scene. Many famous people including Dylan Thomas, Walter Sickert and Amy Winehouse have made Camden their home.

Shopping

The famous Camden Markets are host to all manner of products from artisan crafts and vintage treasures as well as the inescapable, unapologetic tat. In the Stables, the remains of an old Victorian horse hospital for the army, there are some of the better dealers of quality shoes, bags and tailoring.

The Cleopatra Perfume Palace in the Horse Tunnels has recently closed down but a similar replacement now offers a choice of Oudh fragrances and Egyptian-themed gifts. Above ground in this labyrinth can be found some of the famous goth and punk shops ranging in style from Victoriana through latex to the futuristic creations of Cyberdog. These are the true heart of Camden retailers but have to be hunted out amongst rows of sunglasses, hats and Led Zeppelin t-shirts for anyone suffering a ‘communication breakdown’. Be wary of being offered ‘a special price’ when original price tags are largely inflated works of fiction. However, if you are tempted by the item, haggle away.

The maze of markets is overwhelming. You will not see everything. This list should help you find what suits your interests.

Camden Lock Market – The bulk of the market selling crafts, books, clothing, jewellery and fast food. Through here you will also find the Stables Market.

Stables Market – A mix of permanent shops and stalls selling household items, antiques, alternative clothing and food. Here you will find the Horse Tunnels, like an alcove of traders where the best vintage shops are found.

Market Hall- This is the easy to spot building next to the famous ‘Camden Lock’ railway bridge that contains two floors of jewellery and hand crafts.

Camden Lock Village – Here can be found clothing and accessories, as well as a range of unusual, quirky items.

Camden Market – Originally named Buck Street, this market sells fashion for a range of tastes but mainly the mass produced wardrobe staples like ‘Normal people scare me’.

Inverness Street Market – Opposite the tube station, this regular market sells footwear and souvenir stalls and a few fruit stands. It is down here the ‘famous yet undiscovered’ Britpop pub the Good Mixer can be found- but more about that next.

 

Food and Drinks

You’ll find food and drink from all over the globe from the Chinese and Malaysian vendors in the Stables to a traditional pie, eel and mash shop hidden behind Camden Road station, close to Rullo’s Pizzeria. The many eateries and street vendors within the lock area will fight for your custom with generous samples. Haché serves top-quality burgers, or if you want to enjoy a vibrant bar and club, drop by at Gilgamesh where they serve fantastic pan-Asian cuisine. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also try Shaka Zulu, a South African bar and nightspot that features live music and dance.

As for traditional bars and pubs, The World’s End opposite Camden Town tube station and The Dublin Castle on Parkway give you a few options in addition to the Ice Wharf Wetherspoons by the lock. By the canal amongst the market is Dingwall’s, a rock bar Motorhead’s late front man Lemmy used to frequent. The Good Mixer on Inverness Street is not the kind of trendy bar most guides would recommend but is an understated dive of music history. Amy Winehouse is pictured above one of the hotly contested pool tables, this having been one of her regular haunts. However, this watering hole is most famous for its role in the 1990s Britpop explosion, with bands such as Elastica and Blur allegedly signing record deals and breaking into feuds within its walls.

While their remain the local tipples of the Camden Town Brewery, the Pack and Carriage tucked away in Mornington Crescent has some home brews that accompany its vibrant schedule of theatre, comedy and the Eightees alternative nights of Goth DJ Demondaz.

 

Live Music

Some of the biggest names in the music industry, such as Pink Floyd, Jimi Hendrix, Oasis, U2, Dire Straits, Bob Dylan, Radiohead, The Doors and Prince, have all played this town.

The Electric Ballroom hosts a number of different club nights from the Propaganda club night to the Project Mayhem rock night. It’s a big venue with two separate dance floors and four bars attracting the young and intrigued as well as experienced regulars.

The Underworld is ideal for listening to goth, electronica, metal, rock and punk genres right underneath the World’s End pub.  You will also find top jazz and blues performers at the Jazz Café or Blues Kitchen.

(The King is Blind at the Underworld 30/09/16)

 

Check out some of the legendary venues that have launched several artists and bands. The Monarch is one of London’s classic live music pubs with many big acts playing its stage before fame called.

The beauty of these small venues is that you never know if you might just be looking at a future star perform before you. The old Purple Turtle has reopened as a similarly low-key venue called the Crowndale that shares the common principles of good beer and live music. Metalheads will find a home away from home in the Devonshire Arms, or ‘The Dev’, on Kentish Town Road where a mock tudor exterior conceals pints of Iron Maiden’s Trooper beer downed to the likes of ‘Acid Reign’, who played a spontaneous gig there recently after traffic forced them to bail on a major festival slot.

Some of the biggest names in the music industry, such as Pink Floyd, Jimi Hendrix, Oasis, U2, Dire Straits, Bob Dylan, Radiohead, The Doors and Prince, have all played this town. While venue closure will threaten the future of London’s music scene, Camden remains one of the early steps in the hearts and minds of every British performer. The Roundhouse recently hosted ‘Fightback’, a fundraiser for the Music Venues Trust who are hoping to stop the loss of venues to developers. In addition to being a stage for headline acts, the Roundhouse has production studios beneath the venue to nurture grassroots talent.

 

Arts and Culture

For a place that is bustling with unconventional activity and creative energy, the presence of art galleries and theatres comes as no surprise. You can watch theatrical performances from top UK companies such as the RSC as well as films, art installations and gigs at The Roundhouse. Camden Highlight hosts comedy shows. If comedy isn’t up your alley, you can catch an eclectic mix of fringe performances at the Etcetera Theatre. King’s Cross is currently hosting the temporary Donmar Warehouse Shakespeare performances with free tickets to those under 25 released on Fridays.

You can visit The Cob Gallery for modern art exhibitions, or immerse yourself in contemporary photographs at the Proud. You could also visit the highly acclaimed Camden Arts Centre, which houses a huge range of modern visual arts. The British Library is a fine establishment that has 150 million items catalogued on an unimaginable shelving of 625 kms, including one of few editions of the Magna Carta.

Adjacent to the British Library is the Shaw Theatre, named after George Bernard Shaw. It is famous for projecting high-quality, non-mainstream productions. The Canal Museum contains exhibits explaining the history of the canal linking Camden with King’s Cross and Angel. There is also a Jewish Museum, which exhibits the life and history of the Jewish community in London.

(Above: The Roundhouse roof. The venue used to be a railway turntable.)

Escaping the Crowd

If you grow tired of sidestepping round selfie-sticks, take a walk along the canal. Under an hour away you will encounter Little Venice behind Paddington before reaching Notting Hill. In the opposite direction are futuristic eco-home canal flats designed by Nicholas Grimshaw, albeit behind his other work- the Sainsbury car park.

Primrose Hill is worth a visit for the spectacular view of the city from its top where there is a permanent party atmosphere in the summer. The archaic park by-laws banning ‘gramophones’ don’t evidently seem to apply to Bluetooth speakers at sunset.

To make a weekend of so many attractions, The Smart Camden Inn and St. Christopher’s are good budget options, while the Melia White House, the Pullman London St. Pancras and the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel are also nearby. While chains of coffee and gourmet burgers have not yet swamped this thriving microcosm, visit now and you will not regret it.

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