When BBC’s Peaky Blinders slashed its way onto our screens four years ago the rugged yet refined look of tweed inspired a radical change in High Street fashion. Suddenly collarless shirts and flat caps shook off their “grandad” reputation and they are now fashion essentials. But craftsmanship and quality heavy-duty fabrics come at a cost and cheaper imitations fail to last. Is it possible to nail the Peaky Blinders look for yourself without having to commit any major crimes to afford it?
The Suit
The crucial step to finding a suit for any era is the cut – the way it is shaped and hangs. For the 1920s high lapels are essential with three buttons underneath. That is right for the era and way out of step with mainstream modern styles so you are less likely to look like you came straight from work.
The next most important element is the cloth. Look for the heaviest wool you can find among the endless racks of thin suits made for modern central heating. Texture is another important consideration as you need to escape the Italian-inspired smooth fabrics that are so common today, so aim for herringbone weaves and pinstripes.
Putting together the full set is a final hurdle. If you can find your chosen suit in three-pieces then definitely get the waistcoat as well – no other pairing will look as good. A contrasting waistcoat is the next best option but don’t bother trying to match a similar waistcoat to the suit in the hope of getting away with slight variations of shade and texture.
A long dark coat in wool should complete the look but in the modern world of overheated transport, offices and pubs you really don’t want to be turning up anywhere in a sweat and having to fork out for a cloakroom ticket.
The Shirt
Very little of the shirt is visible with this look so try to get the collar right. The best option – which also looks very casual – is a simple collarless shirt worn open. These were hard to buy new just a few years ago but they are now widely available since the surge in this style. Thank you Peaky Blinders!
If you want to smarten up with a collar then the best look is a separate starched collar. These are still made by Darcy clothing – who also make washable collars that don’t need starching – but otherwise vintage examples are your best bet. These require specialist laundering by Barker Group in Bournemouth who are believed to be the last cleaners in the country to hold the equipment and expertise to starch collars to a pristine finish.
Standard attached collars also work but avoid any wide “spread” styles and look for more classic designs.
Accessories
Accessories help make this a genuine period look rather than a weird variation of officewear. A pocket watch is a natural accompaniment to this style and the options vary vastly depending on your taste and budget.
A handkerchief or pocket square risks making this look too dandy rather than that of a criminal of the underworld but a plain white square could elevate the ensemble. For your own personal touch you might want to try one of the more decorative examples from Rampley & Co.
When it comes to ties go for plain and simple. Look for dark designs that stand out against the suit. Nevertheless the Peaky Blinders look arguably looks best rugged without a tie. If you do go for one then be sure to wear a tie bar as well to lift the knot slightly.
Finally go for a tweed cap of the “baker boy” or flat cap style but leave the razor blades out of it.
Shop the entire look here!
by Stewart Vickers @VickHellfire
The post Style: Hack the Peaky Blinders Look appeared first on Felix Magazine.
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