Travel: Getaway to An Ice Hotel in Sweden

Jukkasjärvi, Sweden, 200 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, houses the world’s first ice hotel. Well, sort of. It’s actually the world’s first ice hotel’s 27th incarnation, but that isn’t quite as catchy. When everything in your building from shelves to chandeliers is made of ice, you have the very definition of erection issues. As such, the imaginatively named ICEHOTEL is entirely reconstructed each year from ice found in the frozen Torne River, and proves itself a work of art time and time again.

With a total of 85 rooms, the construction lives annually from autumn to May when it melts from the heat of the sun. Ice artisans get to flex new muscles every year as the design is different each time: no two visits are ever the same. Short of spending all your time admiring the architecture, you can enjoy some new, predictably icy, hobbies. You can try your hand sculpting yourself with an introductory class during your stay. You’ll be shown the basics and various tools, then pretty much left to channel your inner Michelangelo upon an unsuspecting block of ice. There are also photography classes to help you capture the magic.

If arts and crafts sounds like hell frozen over, then there’s plenty of physical activity to keep you warm instead. Northern Swedes have raised cross-country skiing to a form of religion. Popular among athletes for its ability to exercise all your muscles, the sport also attracts amateurs hoping to experience the Arctic wilderness on foot. It’s a gruelling activity, but not without its rewards; a hot mug of Swedish coffee (fika) on your return is a simple but sublime incentive. If you’d rather not spend your holiday with tennis rackets stuck to your shoes, then opt for the snowmobile safari with an overnight stay in the wilderness.

Dog sledding is the best of both worlds: the speed of the snowmobiles with all the heart pounding aspects of skiing, it’s the perfect way to travel the tundra. Whooshing through the landscape, your team of well-trained huskies will take  you as close to Arctic life as you’ll ever be. Kiruna Fjellborg Arctic Journeys, ICEHOTEL’s tour partner, has experienced dogs and guides to guarantee you a safe and comfortable journey. You can even have a dog-sled pick you up from the airport – the best argument for packing light we’ve come across.

After a windswept day in the wild, head for Kallebastun, Jukkasjärv’s Culture Sauna. Scandinavian saunas are a unique 10-step ritual cleansing the body and relaxing the mind. Here, you’ll get three blissful hours with a host that includes a wood-fire bath, an ice plunge or dip in the river, a spa treatment and snacks. By the time Kallebastun’s finished with you, frozen noses and maxed-out muscles will seem a distant memory.

The four-hour stargazing extravaganza, with mouthwatering feast, is another extraordinary experience offered by the hotel. In a secluded rustic cabin restaurant, you’ll be served a welcome drink before dining on Sweden’s finest fares – as hot and hearty as you’d hope. Outside, you can hear the folklore of the northern lights that dance above in green and ghostly glory, as you kick back on reindeer rugs and soft white snow. The evening ends with dessert and coffee before the trip back to base.

For those whom a little luxury goes a long way, the Winter Wilderness Survival trek is the answer to your Spartan prayers. You’ll be whisked away on a snowmobile and taught the skills for survival in extreme climates: learn to navigate by nature and make a flint fire, heat water with just a plastic bottle and make wholesome pine tea. Building shelters, navigation by the sun and stars and walking in deep snow are also part of the four-hour adventure.

Exploring stark and striking foothills of Kebnekaise, Sweden’s highest mountain, on Icelandic horses is an adventure all of its own. You can go during the day or take in a night ride to see the unmissable northern lights. There’s also the chance to experience the indigenous Sámi culture (better known as Laplanders to us Brits) with Sámi guide Nils Nutti.

With northern lights and nature, culture and comfort, we only had one thing stopping us from signing up on the spot – just how cold is this ICEHOTEL exactly? Well, with rooms at a cool -5°c, we can forgive our fear of frostbite, but the hotel has it all in hand. There are reindeer-skin rugs by the shed load, and you’ll be shown how to get the best sleep in your survival sleeping bag, built to withstand far worse. Granted, it isn’t ideal if you had your heart set on romance, and nighttime trips to the toilet are a no-no, but they’re small sacrifices to make for this eccentric, thoroughly Swedish, escape.

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