Food: Eating the Best Malaysian Cuisine in London

Malaysian food doesn’t simply come from one country; it’s been moulded and influenced by China, Indonesia, India and South-East Asia. With such global food superpowers it’s no surprise Malay cuisine is characterised by complex flavours and spices.

There’s so much more to it than the famous (relatively boring) nasi goreng and once you’ve sunk your teeth into a spicy rendang or slurped down a spoon of creamy laksa, you’ll be desperate to discover all Malaysia has to offer.

Hokkien Mee

This simple fried noodle dish comes from China but was popularised by a food market chef in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur. The Malaysian version cooks thick yellow noodles in dark soy sauce with a mix of pork, squid, cabbage and fish cakes. It’s then garnished with a sprinkling of crispy pork crackling.

Hokkien mee isn’t going to be winning healthy-eating awards any time soon. Pork lard and fat is arguably the most important ingredient but this massive heap of rich sticky noodles is the perfect start (or end) to a heavy night out. Head to Rasa Sayang in Chinatown or Sutton’s Noodle House to load up.

Sambal

This is not for the faint-hearted – Malay-style sambal is seriously spicy. The main ingredient is chilli that’s pounded down to release all that held-in heat before being mixed with shrimp paste, sugar and lime. You can add tomatoes, ginger, vinegar, veg and even mango to help soften the effects both during and after… If you’re up for the challenge, this dish is as delicious as it is spicy.

Tukdin near Paddington does prawn and squid versions of this belly-burner and a small side-dish sambal.

The Malaysian Deli’s sambal comes with a warning of “volcano” heat and two exclamation marks. If that doesn’t put you off you can choose chicken, tofu or fish, though it recommends the latter. You’ve been warned.

Laksa

Laksa should be known as the king of soups. It’s a hearty broth popular in Sarawak, the southern state of Malaysian Borneo. Sarawak’s version starts with a splash of spicy sambal that’s balanced with coconut, sour tamarind, garlic, galangal and lemongrass. The soup is topped with chicken, prawns, omelette strips, coriander and occasionally lime and bean sprouts. In case that doesn’t sound hearty enough there’s a layer of vermicelli noodles underneath.

Kentish Town’s Laksa Kitchen doesn’t mess about in name or menu. It has proper Sarawak Laksa that’s washed down perfectly with an ice cold beer and will transport you to the riverbanks of Kuching, the state’s biggest city. There are also a few curried versions from the Malaysian peninsular that are worth coming back for. If you want to try a brilliant vegetarian take go to Sticky Mango on the Southbank for sweet potato and puffed tofu laksa.

Satay

You can’t have a list of Malaysian food without featuring satay. Say goodbye to the poor interpretation mass-produced by Chinese takeaways and say hello to Malay satay, or sate as it’s often spelled.

Beef or chicken is skewered and barbecued before meeting its perfect match in a sweet and spicy peanut dipping sauce. The proper Malaysian version (left) should be chunky with hints of a fiery-looking red oil floating on top – nothing like the pureed yellow stuff you often see.

Satay is served with raw vegetables such as cucumber that take the edge off hotter versions. To try the real deal go to the aptly named Satay House in Paddington, which offers satay with either chicken, lamb or vegetarian tofu. Kensington’s Umami also does a good chicken version.

Rendang

We end with the ultimate Malaysian food: rendang. Until you’ve tried it, you can’t truly understand the layers of flavour in the thick dark sauce or the way the slow-stewed beef falls apart on your fork. This is one moreish dish you just have to go and try.

It might not look much – the sauce is the same colour as the beef, rendering it pretty unappetising – but don’t be put off. That paste is a mix of the usual delicious suspects: ginger, cinnamon, ground spice, galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, garlic and chilli. The marinaded beef is painstakingly slow-cooked in coconut milk, which boils down until everything is absorbed and you’re left with succulent chunks.

Rendang is so good it once topped a poll of the World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods. The Banana Tree does a mouthwatering version called “The Legendary Rendang” which takes four hours to stew and is hard to beat, though you should find it in any good Malaysian restaurant.

 

by Jo Davey

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