Barcelona was the city everyone had visited except me. No matter who was doing the talking, it was always discussed in glowing terms. It gained cult status in my mind as a city of sun, sea and all-night society, where everyone relaxed as hard as they partied. In the end, Barcelona turned out to be a lot more.
Barcelona may not be Spain’s capital but it’s still bold and beautiful, understated and entrancing. Staying a little outside the main areas (away from El Ravel and the Gothic Quarter) gives you a taste of local life and keeps you away from too much tourism. We loved Eixample, with its broad quiet boulevards, local restaurants and cafes and gorgeous architecture.
Everywhere’s quick to reach in Barcelona as long as you’re in the know. You can’t use the street cycles as they’re resident only while private companies own the underground. That means you can only use one company’s lines in each journey. If you change onto a competitor’s line, you’ll end up paying twice so don’t get caught out. The best bet is to get a 10-trip ticket. That saves you time, confusion and cash.
With travel sorted, head beachward taking in the busy Barcelona barrios. Each has its own distinct feel and a lot to offer. Westerly Montjuic is all about the sprawling Palau Nacional, a phenomenal introduction to the art of Barcelona. Heading east, you’ll know when you hit Las Ramblas, a teeming thoroughfare of tourists, traders and inevitably pickpockets. Be sure to keep everything closer than close. I was targeted on two of my five days there, so the threat of thievery is very real.
Secure your stuff then get stuck into the Mercat de la Boqueria, where you can take a seat and eat your way through the fresh delicacies of the day. Stroll down the main avenue before sneaking off to get lost in the winding streets of the Gothic Quarter. Here you’ll find more art, more food and more fun with shopping taking the spotlight. There are also beautiful old churches and cathedrals offering a break from the midday sun. A visit to the Sagrada Familia further north is worth the ticket (always buy online) but to really see why it’s special you need comparisons. Pop into some basilicas downtown and it’ll make the trip to Gaudi’s gorgeous cathedral that much better.
Picasso is another genius who is very much a part of the city. On Sundays, the Picasso Museum is free for a few hours. The queues are huge but quick as they simply hand you a timed ticket for later and send you on your merry way.
Of course no trip to Barca should be without a beach. Snake from the Picasso Museum through El Born to Barceloneta, which is crowded but oh-so-cool. Stake out your spot and soak up some rays before floating off in the waves. There are plentiful bars for cocktails and cerveza (don’t buy from the beach touts: bleurgh) but make sure you bring water wherever you go. Prices triple as you reach the beach and you’re sure to need a lot of hydration.
It won’t take much effort to find yourself a nightlife spot. If I had to recommend one thing, it would be to seek out leche de pantera, or “Panther’s Milk”. Tasting like strawberry or vanilla Nesquick, it packs a subtle but lethal punch. Cheap, delicious and dangerous. For food, my fave is Bosque Palermo’s paella in Eixample: hearty, heavenly and heaving with locals. A sure sign that their food is as superb as their city.
by Jo Davey
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